Surprising Singapore

I thought I knew Singapore. I’d once passed through for 2 days – sampled my first Singapore Sling and went on the Zoo Night Safari – and foolishly thought that meant I’d seen the best of this island city. Luckily I was invited back despite my ignorance. From Peranakan culture to lush gardens, ‘Mod Sin’ cuisine and street art – I discovered so many different sides to Singapore on my second visit. These are some of the best surprises from that trip.

The lion head symbol of Singapore

The lion head symbol of Singapore

Gardens

Singapore is not just about the skyscrapers. Sure it has some awesome skyrises and striking modern buildings (looking at you Marina Bay Sands) but it has Botanical Gardens and large outdoor recreational spaces too. The most astounding of these has to be the avatar-like Gardens By The Bay. Built on reclaimed land, Gardens By The Bay opened in 2011 and consists of a collection of solar-powered ‘supertrees’, a Cloud Forest, Flower Dome and World Of Plants. Perfect for visiting and local families alike, there is a free nightly light show which sees the supertrees dazzle and dance like fireworks. The most popular vantage point to watch the show seemed to be found from lying on the floor. Personally I preferred my seat at the IndoChine Cafe, which you’ll find at the top of the tallest tree.

View of the staggering Marina Bay Sands resort from IndoChine Cafe

View of the staggering Marina Bay Sands resort from IndoChine Cafe

The solar-powered supertrees at Gardens By The Bay light up by night

The solar-powered supertrees at Gardens By The Bay light up by night

All of Singapore’s outdoor areas are incredibly efficient – making the most of the precious space. On the Southern Ridges Walk you can cross Henderson Waves, a magnificent sculptural bridge, far removed from the traffic and homes below, whilst at MacRitchie those who dare can take the treetop walk and cross a 250m long free-standing suspension bridge through the rainforest.

Crossing Henderson Waves - Singapore's highest pedestrian bridge

Crossing Henderson Waves – Singapore’s highest pedestrian bridge

Henderson Waves

Amongst the foliage on the Southern Ridges Walk

"I'm a blogger, get me out of here!" On the MacRitchie free-standing suspension bridge.

“I’m a blogger, get me out of here!” On the MacRitchie free-standing suspension bridge

On its own separate island is peaceful Pulau Ubin. A cycling/ambling paradise, you can follow paths through palm trees, past lily ponds and wild boars, to the wooden boardwalk over the sea at Chek Jawa.

bloggers on bikes

Bloggers on bikes in Pulau Ubin

On the boardwalk at Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin

On the boardwalk at Chek Jawa, Pulau Ubin

Beaches

Yes Singapore has beaches! (Surprised me too.) Sentosa Island is a self-declared state of fun. Made up of several resorts, including Universal Studios and luxury hotels like Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa and W Singapore, there are also sections of beach open to the general public.

Public beach at Sentosa Island

Public beach at Sentosa Island

We pulled up a lounger for the day at the Miami-inspired Mambo Beach Club. There’s no fee to use their pool and loungers, although you are of course expected to purchase food and drink from their bar and restaurant. Cocktails are expensive throughout Singapore but these seemed good value considering they came with a beach sun lounger and decent tunes.

The Miami-inspired Mambo beach club on Sentosa Island

The Miami-inspired Mambo beach club on Sentosa Island

Culture

Excuse me for exposing my ignorance once again but my impression from my first visit to Singapore was that the culture here was very Western. I guess this is a hazard if you only visit the commercial/tourist hubs of Orchard Road and Clarke Quay. Whilst I love the amenities that these places offer it was great to scratch below the surface on this trip and discover the fusion of cultures that make Singapore what it is today.

Nowhere was this more evident than in the Peranakan enclave of Joo Chiat. Peranakan is a Malay term that translates to ‘locally born of foreign descendent’ and is used to describe a culture of people found in Singapore. The Peranakan heritage is a rich mix of European, Chinese, Malay and Indian influences and everything from their homes, to food, language and clothing is a dynamic fusion of these cultures.

Traditional Peranakan shophouses in Joo Chiat

Traditional Peranakan shophouses in Joo Chiat

I'd like this one please

I’d like this one please

Singaporean cuisine in general is a bubbling pot of various influences and at the local hawker centres (food courts) you get a taste of the various foods Singaporean’s love. At the Changi Village Food Centre the most popular dish is Mizzy’s Nasi Lemak – a Malaysian dish of chicken, anchovy sambal, cucumber, fried egg, peanuts and rice. Averaging $3.50 (about £1.75) per meal, you can afford to try a meal from every region during your Singaporean stay.

Tiong Bahru Hawker Centre

Tiong Bahru Hawker Centre

Mizzy's famous Nasi Lemak from Changi Hawker Centre

Mizzy’s famous Nasi Lemak from Changi Village Hawker Centre

‘Mod Sin’

The Singaporean’s still observe many of the conservative Chinese beliefs – men and women must be wed before co-habiting and homes are purchased according to the principles of Feng Sui, for example. But from the fashion, architecture and new cuisine I experienced, it seems the younger generations have very modern tastes.

Chef Willin Low at Wild Rocket has exquisite modern taste. After studying in the UK and struggling to find much food he found palatable (ha!) he began creating dishes that merge Asian flavours with modern trends. Some of the creations we were lucky enough to sample included slow cooked beef short rib with smoked oyster rib and a pandan (South Asia’s answer to vanilla) panna cotta.

Slow cooked short beef rib at Wild Rocket

Slow cooked short beef rib at Wild Rocket

Meanwhile, Janice Wong serves delectable desserts that look like works of art at 2am:dessertbar (click here for more on that topic!) and hidden behind a pop-up shop front in Chinatown is an ultra-trendy speakeasy called the Library. (You’ll need to know the password, found on their Facebook page, or tell a bad joke/do a dodgy dance to get in!) The creative cocktail menu at the Library (the original fake shop front was a library – hence the name) includes concoctions like From Russia With Love, which comes with a love note from James himself, or the Rye N Air, where the Rye Whiskey comes in a small ziplock plastic bag with a sticker across it proclaiming “UK Customs Paid”. (You have to pour it yourself just like on the low-cost airline!)

Say the magic word and staff at this pop up shop will show you what hides behind the garments

Say the magic word and staff at this pop up shop will show you what hides behind the garments

Singapore had one more surprise for me. As you know I am a little obsessed with street art, but as I was visiting a nation known for its cleanliness I did not have any expectations of finding it here. It took a trip to the Arab Quarter to show me that anything is possible in Singapore though, even street art.

Street art spotted off Haji Lane

Street art spotted off Haji Lane

I visited Singapore in association with Singapore Tourism Board and Singapore Airlines. More information on the sweet treats and shopping will follow shortly!

Further Reading:

Sweet Treats In Singapore

Singapore Shopping Guide

23 Comments

  1. Reply

    Renuka

    November 24, 2014

    Amazing pictures! I particularly like that ‘bloggers on bike’ photo! Whenever I think of Singapore, I instantly think of a stunning destination – a place full energy and vibe. I hope to make it there someday…thanks for inspiring!

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 24, 2014

      Aw thank you – so glad you enjoyed it! Singapore does have a great energy and vibe but also a peaceful side too – if you know where to find it. I think that one was one the most surprising discoveries for me.

  2. Reply

    Silvia

    November 24, 2014

    I visited Singapore last month and was also blown away! In my mind it was just shiny and bland, but in the end I really loved it and wished I had more time there. Glad to see you also enjoyed it!

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 24, 2014

      Yes! I saw some of your photos and it made me realise I had misjudged/missed so much on my first visit. Glad I went back – you should too!

  3. Reply

    Janice Stringer

    November 24, 2014

    This was a wonderful post Jayne.
    Did you take the tour up to the pool at the Marina Bay Sands hotel?
    The view is magnificent and we had an animated guide who shared with us a little about his life in Singapore and you could see where the night race for formula one runs. Little India was one of my favourite areas and riding the buses around the city was fun.
    The first time I visited I didn’t enjoy it – the second time was so much better but the so was the space in the hotel!
    My son on Sentosa was able to swim and learn about the pink dolphins for his birthday surprise when he turned 14 and looking at your photographs from the public beach and pool I can see all those wonderful big boats making their way up the Malaka Straits. You brought back happy memories. Thank you.

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 25, 2014

      Sounds like you had a wonderful time. I didn’t have a chance to go to the top of Marina Bay Sands but some of the group did and their photos look awesome. Next time perhaps…

  4. Reply

    Elizabeth

    November 24, 2014

    I love Singapore! I really wanted to visit the MacRitchie suspension bridge but it wasn’t open several years ago when I was there. I’m glad to see that it is open and amazing. I’ll have to head back there!

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 25, 2014

      You must – it was one of the Singapore surprises I really enjoyed. Just remember to take a towel as it can get quite sweaty on the hike!

  5. Reply

    Catherine

    November 25, 2014

    I *love* Singapore so much! There’s so much to see and do – the Temples are always my favourite part. We’ve stayed at the Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa quite a few times over the years, the service there is second to none. It really is something very special!

    C x
    Lux Life Blog

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 25, 2014

      I never even knew you could stay on Sentosa Island until this visit. There really is so much to see and do on such a relatively small island. It’s amazing.

  6. Reply

    Beverley | Pack Your Passport

    November 25, 2014

    Ok so I’m definitely adding Singapore to my list! I always thought that I could spend a 24 hour layover there and see all there is to see but clearly not; the Southern Ridges Walk looks amazing!

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 25, 2014

      I’m so glad I went back and had longer than 2 days. It definitely warrants a longer stay. Have added it to my ‘I could live there’ list!

  7. Reply

    Natasha Amar

    November 26, 2014

    I was never too keen to visit Singapore because I’ve heard many people say that it’s like Dubai, where I live. I’m curious to visit now though and I believe two cities are hardly ever exactly alike. The food looks delicious by the way!

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 26, 2014

      I haven’t been to Dubai but I can’t imagine Singapore being similar – unless you never left the malls haha

  8. Reply

    Shayne Koncz

    November 26, 2014

    Hello from Canada,

    Great reads on your site, I am one to travel as well. I am headed to Southeast Asia on December 26 for a couple of week. Particullary Thailand, Macau and Hong Kong. Do you have any recommendations on those places? I would love to hear any suggestions of “MUST DO” things. You can feel free to write on here or send to my personal email. Thank you for your time in advance!

    Regards,

    Shayne

  9. Reply

    MySuitcaseDiary

    December 11, 2014

    Wow all these city pictures looks like from future world. Nice experience, would love to visit Singapore and it is a good stop for a few days when going to Asia.

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      December 11, 2014

      Yes it is very futuristic – and yet traditional in many ways too. A great city break indeed.

  10. Reply

    Anita

    May 15, 2015

    The architecture is just breathtaking! I hope to go there someday, whenever I’ll need to see a city that will blow my mind!

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      May 15, 2015

      Singapore can certainly do that for you 😉

  11. Reply

    Alex from tripsuit

    November 26, 2015

    Those Peranakan shophouses look so cute! I’ve never seen architecture like this! Except for dollhouses 😉

    • Reply

      Jayne Gorman

      November 26, 2015

      Me neither – not something I expected to find in Singapore!

LEAVE A COMMENT

RELATED POSTS

Send this to friend